SAMPLE ITINERARY
For some of the most prized Pinot noir in the world,
take a tour of Oregon’s Willamette Valley that begins 40 minutes southwest of
Portland. It all started with a handful of wine enthusiasts in the late 1960s,
and has since bloomed to today’s 250 wineries. What attracts them to the area
is the red volcanic earth combined with Oregon’s cool climate and long summer
days—perfect conditions for Pinot noir and other delicate grapes.
From the City to the Countryside
Start out at
Ponzi
Vineyards, one of the Valley’s pioneers, and a gateway to Oregon’s wine
country. The 100-acre family-owned vineyard is run now by the second
generation. Winemaker Luisa Ponzi says Oregon’s relative newcomer status means
there’s plenty of innovation and lots of character among the wineries. “Every
place looks different. There are teeny barns, then large, elegant wineries,”
she says. “It’s exciting to go out and discover them.”
From Ponzi take a detour and follow a stretch of the
Washington County Vineyard and Valley Scenic Tour Route, past fruit orchards,
to the town of Scholls where you’ll find
Smith
Berry Barn. The old wooden barn sells seasonal berries, all locally grown,
as well as produce and gifts. Across the street is
South
Store Café, where you’ll find pastries, piping hot beverages and
sandwiches on freshly-baked bread.
Into the Heart of Wine Country
Head next to route 99 West to reach the heart of wine
country.
Rex Hill, just outside Newberg, was once the site of a fruit and nut
drying plant. In the tasting room you can still see some of the bricks that
made up its drying ovens. Farther south, in Dundee, is where you’ll find most
of the big names.
Sokol
Blosser is one, renowned for its wholly organic wine and sustainable
farming practices. Outside the tasting room is a showcase vineyard with 10
varietals of grapes.
Another organic vineyard is
Archery Summit,
whose winemaker and vineyard manager are both women—a rarity in the
tradition-bound industry of winemaking. Besides tasting, you can visit (and
smell) Oregon’s only caves where the wine is aged in hundreds of French oak
barrels. In addition to the tasting room that’s open year-round, the winery
offers tastings in the cellar-like fermentation hall during Memorial Day
weekend, and by appointment.
For a little fresh air, visit
Erath Winery,
located high in the hills over Dundee. One of the founding Wineries, Erath has
grown to 115 acres, and features a tasting room filled with Pinot noir, Pinot
gris and Gewurztraminer, among other varietals. Bring a picnic lunch and stay
awhile—the outside terrace offers sweeping views of the valley.
Over the hills and far away
Over a few more hills lies the grand winery of
Domaine Drouhin. Véronique Drouhin is a fourth-generation winemaker, from
Burgundy, France, where her siblings run the family’s main estate. Over
Memorial Day weekend, the winery brings out a new release, which last year
sold out within hours.
For a contrast, head next to the
Carlton Winemakers Studio, in nearby Carlton. The three-year-old
cooperative is the first of its kind in Oregon, serving varietals made by 10
small premium winemakers who each buy grapes from local growers, then share
the equipment to make their masterpieces. The tasting room, which feels
surprisingly intimate given the hugely vaulted ceiling, offers Northwest snack
fare to complement the wines.
Where to eat & lodge
When it’s time for dinner, try the
Dundee
Bistro where the motto is: “Live well, eat well.” This lively, modern
restaurant—where vintners often gather to discuss the harvest’s
prospects—serves gourmet dishes cooked from local, organically farmed produce
and meat.
For a more intimate experience,
Red Hills Provincial Dining is set in a converted house built in 1912. The
Pacific Northwest menu is supplemented with produce grown from the
restaurant’s 12-bed garden just outside.
Afterward spend a quiet night at
Red Ridge
Farms, an herb and specialty plant nursery that offers a luxury
country-inn apartment. Scents from over 100 varieties of lavender and other
fragrant herbs fill the farm’s air. Its ridge-top setting offers views across
the valley to the coastal mountain range, and at night, when the nursery and
shop close down, this view and the farm become your own, affording perfect
solitude.
More lively is the
Hotel
Oregon, in historic downtown McMinnville. This century-old hotel was
recently renovated by Oregon’s famed McMenamin brothers and features their
hallmark whimsical style. Hallways are painted with wine-inspired notes and
each room is dedicated to characters from the hotel’s history. Ask for the
“Wine Pioneers” room and raise a glass to those early enthusiasts who got
Oregon’s great wine-making started. – Polly Forster
